Hualien

Hualien Station area

Temples (Chi'an, Gang Tian), Food, Accommodation (City Home, Green Hotel), Transport, Links

Hualien is a  moderately interesting city, with a several historic sights, mostly from the Japanese era but also a couple of aboriginal sites thousands of years old. Unfortunately they're mostly spread out over several kilometres, so unless you're a true aficionado of Asian or indigenous history you'd probably be better off doing what 99.99% of foreign visitors to Hualien do, and using your time - and your wheels if you have them - at Taroko Gorge. I do hope to visit the other sites in the future, but for now I'll focus on two sights which are within easy reach of Hualien City.

Sights

Chi'An Ching Hsou Temple


Chi-an (Yoshino) Shingon Temple

Japanese might notice that the temple is not quite so authentic as first meets the eye; in particular as essentially a museum piece it's not maintained and presented nearly as immaculately as those of 'real' temples in Japan, wherein the monks spend many hours carefully grooming the gardens and grounds, and keep everything spotless. Nonetheless the temple is a lovely 'little piece of Japan' in Hualien, and a fun place to watch hundreds of Taiwanese come to practice Japanese rituals.

History


Chi'An Ching Hsou Temple (吉安慶修院, also Qing Xiou Temple or Ji'an Keishin) is Japanese Buddhist temple founded in 1917, at which time Japanese were encouraged to migrate to Taiwan, particularly to this region (Chi'an was then called Yoshino, which uses the same characters) to develop the region's horticultural industry. The temple was then known as Shingon Yoshino Dojo.



The temple belongs to the Shingon Esoteric sect of Buddhism, which was founded by Kobo Daishi (known posthumously as Kukei), who travelled to China to study Buddhism, and thus his philosophy is closer to Mahayana Buddhism, which is practised in China, Korea and Taiwan, than other schools in Japan; in particular it is the only one which encourages vegetarianism. Many visitors to Japan stay at Koyasan (Mt Koya), the school's centre for more then a millennium, to enjoy exploring the temples, the attached equally old graveyard, hiking in the mountains and eating shojin-ryori (Japanese vegetarian temple cuisine).


Like so many beautiful historic Japanese buildings in Taiwan, the Chi'an Temple suffered from neglect and abandonment following the departure of the Japanese after their defeat in WWII and the subsequent Chinese takeover. It was finally recognised as an important historical site in 1997, restored, and opened to the public in 2003.





Tourists line up to perform the purification ritual before entering the temple.

Transport

Chi'an township is about five kilometres from Hualien City, so about an hour's walk from the train station. All walks being relative, it's fairly pleasant interesting one, with footpaths most of the way, and for the last couple of kilometres it follows a small river through farmland. If you're coming to Hualien on a local train it's worth continuing onto Chi'an station (one stop south) but it's not worth taking a separate train from Hualien, as they are infrequent and it's still 2km from the station. It would be an easy bicycle or scooter ride, or should take about 15 minutes in a taxi (200-300 NT). The route from the train station passes by the Loving Hut.

Essentials

345-1, ZhingXing Road, Ji'An Township
花蓮縣吉安鄉吉安村中興路345-1號
Admission: NT30
03 853 5479 (Chinese only)
Open: Tuesday - Sunday 8:30 - 5:00
Websites: Official (Chinese), another homepage (Chinese), Hualien Council, Interesting Blog post


Top, Accommodation (City Home, Green Hotel), Transport, Links


Gang Tian Temple (港天宫)


Gang Tian Temple, Hualien

The Gang Tian Temple (港天宫, also Gong Tian Temple) is the largest temple in Hualien. It's dedicated to the goddess Matsu, who was born in China in 960AD and is worshipped in China, Taiwan and Southeast Asia. She is believed to roam the seas protecting sailors and fisherman. The temple also has statues of other popular Buddhist and Taoist deities, and its intricately decorated interior is not unlike other Taiwanese temples, however what stands out about Gang Tian Temple is its size, being several stories high with smaller attached temples.

Gang Tian Temple (main altar)

I'm usually reluctant to photograph inside active sites of worship, but the staff member on duty when I visited was happy to introduce me to the gods on display and encouraged me to photograph them, seeming almost offended that I wouldn't. I even left with a sesame biscuit, which I'm promised will bring me good health as it's has been offered to the gods. I was just pleasantly surprised to find it was vegan. If you do wander inside and take photographs it's polite to make a small contribution to the temple (100NT fine), especially if someone has given you a tour.

Transport

It's about a 3km or 40 minute walk from the train station, or a short, cheap taxi ride. If coming directly from the train station take the rear exit. The route passes by the two vegetarian buffet restaurants, both close to the train station.

Essentials

No. 15號, Lane 500, Section 1, Zhongshan Rd, Hualien City
花蓮縣花蓮市國慶里四鄰中山路一段500巷15號
03 856 0031

Top, Temples (Chi'an, Gang Tian), Transport, Links
 

Food

Don't arrive in Hualien late and hungry as this little decent food available after about 19:00.

Loving Hut


Hualien Loving Hut meal and drink

I recommend the Loving Hut. It's about two kilometres from Hualien Station, so a twenty minute walk or a short taxi ride. Besides being a simple, delicious cafe, the Loving Hut is the perfect place to load up with  sandwiches and other take-out meals for Taroko Gorge.

Take these with you to Taroko Gorge.


Website
Phone 038 566 353
Mon - Thu: 6:30 - 14:30
Fri - Sun: 6:30 - 20:30


Chang Chun Teng

Another good option for Hualien is the all-you-can-eat Chang Chun Vegetarian buffet restaurant, which is excellent value at NT200 per person.

Chang Chun Buffet spread, Hualien

No. 22, Fu'an Rd, Hualien City, Hualien County, Taiwan 970
花蓮市富安路22路
Lunch: 11:00 - 14:00
Dinner:  17:00 -20:00
Closed: second and fourth Monday of each month.
Phone: 03 856 9069
No website, Happycow page



Top, Temples (Chi'an, Gang Tian), Transport, Links
 

Accommodation

City Home

Due to the ever-growing influx of tourists visiting to see the gorge, the hotel situation in Hualien isn't good, with a decent and bathroom bed difficult to find for under NT1000. There are a few hostels, of varying quality, which can be found online, and several hotels scattered around the train station, but you may be lucky to find clean sheets on many of them.

City Home, Hualien

I highly recommend staying at City Home. At 2000NT per night (weeknights) it's moderately expensive for Taiwan, however its spotless, spacious, tastefully decorated rooms, combined with a simple but delicious breakfast the next morning make it well worth considering the price. It sells itself as a 'hostel' but it's more like a boutique hotel. If you will have just one luxury night in Taiwan consider making it at City Home. They also have larger rooms with more beds for families or travelling groups. As of April 2015 prices are exactly the same if booked directly  (website is in Chinese) or through Agoda.

Double room, City Home (Hualien)
 

A breakfast menu is provided at check-in, and a simple, traditional, delicious Taiwanese-style breakfast is served in the rooms the next morning.


City Home breakfast delivery.

Prices at City Home double in the weekend, as is standard for Hualien. So it's important to book ahead for a weekday, which brings the added benefit of seats on trains and fewer visitors to Taroko Gorge (or almost anywhere else you're going).

Unfortunately City Home is about 2km from the train station, so it requires a taxi if carrying luggage (address for taxi:花蓮縣花蓮市大同街30號).

Green Hotel


Green Hotel, Hualien

If you want to stay nearer the train station I recommend the Green Hotel (also Fu Yeh hotel), at 1300NT for a double room (on a weeknight - don't come to Hualien during a weekend). The room was small but clean, very much like a business hotel from Japan, but of course older and less well maintained (but much better than most in its price bracket). If you must stay at a hotel in this price range, near the train station, I would recommend it. It makes it easy to reach the bus station (two minutes walk away) for an early bus.

None of these suitable: Search for more hotels in Hualien on Agoda (about link).

Transport

Getting to Hualien


The best way to reach Hualien is by the Taroko Express. These Japanese trains tilt as they go around corners, reducing the travel time from Taipei to Hualien from three hours to two. And better still, they cost the same as the regular Tze-Chiang (express) at 440NT. These must be purchased in advance for busy times, such as evenings and weekends. Coming from anywhere it's best to just take the fastest train you can get a seat on.
There are no direct buses from Taipei to Hualien. For more information see my post on intercity transport or comparison of train types in Taiwan.

Train Station

There is no underpass to the train station (what were they thinking?) and getting from one side to the other requires about a ten minute walk or the purchase of a cheap, but inconvenient "platform ticket", so it's best to know which exit to take first. The lockers, tourist information centre and bus station are all outside the front entrance, but most restaurants and most sights are closer to the rear exit.

Getting Around Hualien

Walking and Public Transport

Much of Hualien actually has footpaths (not so common in Taiwan) so walking is possible, especially when it's not too hot (or cold). Hualien has a very limited bus system, so it's rare to be able to get one where you want to go. Taxis start at 100NT, and a taxi ride within the city should be under 200NT.

Scooters and Bicycles

Several scooter stores rent scooters to foreigners with local or international licenses. If you don't have one, are confident riding a scooter and are willing to take the risks of an accident (your health insurance probably won't cover you and possibly being liable, regardless of who was at fault) it may be possible to find a store willing to rent to foreign tourists without licenses, so ask a few stores around Hualien. Licensed or not, if you choose this route please be extremely careful, especially if riding to and around Taroko Gorge, as roads are narrow, can be slippery and are plied by far more tour buses than the roads were built for. Many bicycle stores and hotels also rent bicycles, but if you borrow one ensure that it has a very good lock (or buy your own) and use it.

Visitors Centre and Bus Station

The Visitor's Centre is to the right of the trains station as you come out the main exit. They provide a free map and brochure on Hualien and Taroko Gorge, but for more up-to-date information of Taroko Gorge, or to purchase a book on hikes in the gorge one must visit the Taroko Gorge Visitor's Centre. The bus station (for Taroko Gorge) is to the left of the station.


Where Next?

Taroko Gorge - of course.
Stay a night or two in Tianxiang (inside the gorge).

See Also

Map




 

Airports in Taiwan


Overview

The vast majority of international travellers will arrive at Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport, which is (as its name suggests) somewhat inconveniently located in neighbouring Taoyuan County. Taipei's older and much more conveniently located Taipei Songshan Airport is used mostly for domestic flights, but also for flights to Japan, China and Korea. With such a good public transport system don't even think about flying domestically in Taiwan, unless it's to an outlying island. Taichung and Kaohsiung airports have a few international flights, especially to China and Japan, and Japan's excellent budget carrier Peach sometimes offer flights to Kaohsiung for less than to Taoyuan. The odd charter flight leaves Hualien for Japan's remote but fascinating Yonaguni, but you'll do well to score a seat on one.

Taipei Taoyuan International Airport (TPE)

Taipei Taoyuan International Airport is fast and efficient, but inconveniently located in Taoyuan.

Formerly known as Chiang Kai Shek International Airport (after Taiwan's former murderous dictator) and now more appropriately known as Taipei Taoyuan International Airport (臺灣桃園國際機場) to differentiate it from Taipei Songshan Airport in Taipei, this is Taiwan's major hub and home to the two main Taiwanese carriers, the state-run China Airlines (not to be confused for Air China) and EVA Air.
As an important aside, I strongly recommend not flying Vanilla Air to or from Japan.

Terminals

There are two terminals so it's important to check your itinerary to see which terminal you depart from before you board a bus for the airport. A skytrain connects the two terminals, as does a slower ground-based shuttle. Terminal 2 is newer, larger and busier.

Food and Drink

There are foodcourts in both terminals, but the one in the basement of Terminal 1 is the largest. There are Starbucks cafes in the basement foodcourts of both terminals, and also one on the third floor of Terminal 1 and the fourth floor of Terminal 2, through the departure gate. The best option for vegetarians or health-conscious people is Li Pin Vegetarian in the Terminal 1 foodcourt.

Transport

Rail?

It's rather inconvenient that there's currently no direct rail connection, however a new MRT is under construction and was planned to open in December 2015, but this date has been pushed back indefinitely. It is, however, expected to open soon (as of February, 2017).

Bus


The simplest, cheapest and greenest way to travel between Taipei and Taoyuan Airport is by bus. A handful of companies run buses from the bus stations (in both terminals), with most having a service to Taipei Main Station. While all services are cheap by Western standards and reasonably comfortable, prices and schedules vary between companies, and prices generally reflect the quality of the service offered; cheaper buses generally also make more stops along the way which can increase travel time considerably.

As of February, 2017, the Taipei West Bus Station (shown above) is no longer in use, probably because of the new MRT, however as a result of its delay buses to Taoyuan International Airport (TPE) now depart from a makeshift bus station outside the East Exits of the ground floor of Taipei Main Station. Follow signs. The express bus should take under an hour, but can be delayed due to heavy traffic. They currently run to the airport all night.

Buses also connect the airport with other city hubs, including Taipei City Hall  (for Taipei 101), and Xindian Station (for Bitan), however these buses don't run all night. Taking these buses can reduce delays getting out of central Taipei, especially at peak traffic times. Once the new MRT opens, however, this is expected to be by far the fastest and most efficient way to reach the airport. 


High Speed Rail

For a more comfortable journey, or if coming from the south, take the High Speed Rail to Taoyuan Station. From there it's about a 20 minute shuttle ride to the airport. If you're flying EVA or China Airlines it's possible to check in at the HSR station, and then just turn up at the airport and board your flight. There's not a lot to do around the station, but it saves hauling your luggage up to the departures area. While the HSR won't be affected by traffic jams, note that seats can sell out at busy times (and they don't always sell non-reserved seats) so book your ticket in advance for a safe, almost-guaranteed trip to the airport. I say almost guaranteed because in the unlikely event of an earthquake it grinds to a halt until the tracks are checked, no doubt resulting in a few missed flights.

Taxi?

There's really no need for a taxi to or from Taipei, but if you want to try it's best to agree on a price first (this applies to all inter-city fares, but not within Taipei City, such as to Songshan Airport, for which the driver will expect to use the meter). Rates to Taoyuan Airport from Taipei start at around 800NT off peak, but are likely to be over 1000 during the day, and more coming from the airport. Ignore any touts who may approach you from within the airport and instead follow signs to the proper taxi stand.

Luggage

Most luggage services are handled by the Pelican company. Luggage storage costs 100NT per day for a small item (total of three dimensions up to 150cm and weight up to 25kg) and up to 300NT per day for a large or heavy item. They can also pick up and deliver luggage, or transfer it between terminals.
The airport also offers a "Bonded Luggage Service" for passengers transferring at Taoyuan. Luggage is left at the service centre before passing through customs, and then collected before boarding your final flight. This service cannot be used once through customs. While it's a good (and very cheap) service for passengers transferring through or stopping over in Taipei, be sure to check online and call to confirm that you're entitled to use the service before working it into your plans.
There are no lockers at Taoyuan Airport.

Accommodation

If you have an early or late flight there are a handful of hotels around the airport, but few of them are within a few kilometres. The Novotel is a couple of kilometres and runs a regular shuttle bus, so is the best option close to the airport. Rooms starting at around 150 USD.

There are also hotels in the nearby Taoyuan City, but with buses to and from Taipei West Bus Station Terminal A running all night (about 40 minutes in light traffic) I recommend staying at the Novotel (or another hotel near the airport) for very early or late flights, but otherwise just taking a bus into Taipei and staying near Taipei Main Station. Beware that as of September 2015, Google Maps does not get the times correct for the first and last MRT trains, so for an early or late flight it's important to check with station staff or stay near Taipei Main Station (or take a taxi). 

Taipei Songshan International Airport (TSA)

Taipei Songshan Airport (台北松山機場) was Taipei's first airport, established in 1936 as a military air base during the Japanese administration of Taiwan. It's been used for civilian flights since 1950, however due to its smaller runway size than Taoyuan Airport it's mostly only used for domestic flights and international flights to Japan, China and Korea.

An EVA Air plane comes in to land at Taipei Songshan Airport, as seen from Guandu

City-to-City Flights

Located in downtown Taipei with its own MRT station, Songshan airport is much more accessible from Taipei than Taoyuan. And since 2009 the airport has been operating "city-to-city" flights to respective inner-city airports Gimpo (in Seoul) and Haneda (in Tokyo), saving commuting times at both ends of these journeys. For example a Songshan to Haneda flight saves approximately an half an hour of commuting time in Taiwan and at least an hour getting from Tokyo's very inconveniently located Narita Airport (and usually an expensive train ticket to Tokyo). While often slightly more expensive, the extra cost is often easily saved in transport, especially if you would otherwise have taken the comfortable but expensive Narita Express. It's well worth searching for a flight to Songshan if available.

Transport

Songshan Airport Station is on the brown Muzha Line. It's about 20 minutes from Taipei Main Station, unfortunately requiring a transfer at Zhongxiao Fuxing Station. The transfer requires a fair amount of walking, so you may wish to consider a taxi if you have heavy luggage, but beware that the roads around that part of Taipei can become quite congested, especially during peak times, so factor plenty of time if you opt for a taxi. It's about 6km from Taipei Main Station, and taxis will expect (rightly) to use the meter, which should come to around 200NT, but possibly more during busy times. If the driver takes diversions it may well be to avoid busy traffic, as rip-off taxi rides (as in India or Thailand) are uncommon (but no unheard of) in Taiwan.

Taichung Airport (RMQ)

Taichung International Airport (臺中航空站) is a shared civilian and military airport, with a few scheduled international flights to China, Korea and Vietnam, and a few charter flights to other international destinations. It's about an hour and a half from Taiching by bus, and further from the High Speed Rail Station. The most likely reason any traveller would pass through Taichung Airport would be a domestic flight to Magung (Penghu) as it's the closest airport on the mainland. Flights also depart for Kinmen.

Kaohsiung International Airport (KHH)



The introduction of the High Speed Rail hit Kaohsiung International Airport (高雄國際航空站) hard, with passengers often opting to travel to Songshan or Taoyuan for cheaper flights, however it's surviving largely through international flights to Japan, China and Korea, as for all these destinations an HSR ticket would add to the cost of the trip, in time and money, considerably. It also serves the Philippines and Vietnam, popular routes for the thousands of foreign labourers.

The airport is increasingly being used by Japan's new LCCs (Low Cost Carriers), particulary Peach Airline, however it's important to understand the risks involved with flying an LCC. I strongly recommend avoiding Vanilla Air at all costs. If you are travelling from or onwards to Japan, and if you only have time to see one coast in Taiwan (eg the HSR Rail Pass trip down the West Coast) then consider flying into Taoyuan (or Songshan) and out of Kaohsiung or vice versa. I would even consider a side trip from Taiwan to Okinawa, which is much closer to Taiwan than it is to most of Japan. Kaohsiung Airport is conveniently located on the city's great MRT system, only half an hour from Kaohsiung Station, however it's a short walk from the MRT station to the departures area.


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