Taiwan Travel Itinerary
In this video I present a recommended itinerary for a first-time visitor to Taiwan. It starts with four days in Taipei, and continues north to Jiufen, and then around the island to Hualien and Taroko Gorge.
Taoyuan Airport MRT (Subway)
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| Entrance from Taipei Main Station |
After twenty years of planning, ten years of construction, six delays and a trial period, Taipei's new Airport MRT finally opened to the public on March 2nd, 2017.
The modern, spacious MRT station stretches between Taipei Main Station and Beimen Station on the green Songshan-Xindian line. This connects the airport line with most of Taipei's MRT lines, the conventional trains, the high speed rail and Taipei Bus Station. An underground "kiss and ride" taxi station is located just outside the station gates.
The MRT trains themselves very much resemble Taipei's other MRT lines (which they are), except for the novel new purple (express) and blue (commuter) colour schemes, and luggage racks in each carriage. The MRT station itself, however, feels more like an airport than a subway station, complete with moving walkways and even an "in-town check-in terminal", where passengers flying on Taiwan's own China Airlines and EVA Airways can check in their bags and then take the new MRT to the airport and go straight to their departure gate.
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| In-Town Check-In is available for flights on Taiwanese airlines (China Airlines, EVA Air and subsidiaries). |
Passengers headed to Taoyuan International Airport should be sure to take an express train, which makes the journey in a mere 35 minutes, stopping off only at New Taipei City Industrial Park, Chang Gung Memorial Hospital and both airport terminals. The commuter trains stop at ten stops before the airport, and then continue on for another eight stops, including Taoyuan High Speed Rail Station. The entire 51-kilometre journey from Taipei Main Station to the terminal at Huanbei Station in Jhongli takes around seventy minutes. After the first month's 50% discount finishes, tickets from Taipei Main Station to the airport will cost NT160, about as much as the HSR and shuttle bus and not a lot faster, but without the hassle of the transfer from Taoyuan HSR Station to the airport shuttle bus. Buses, by comparison, usually cost around NT125, and take around forty minutes in good traffic.
This MRT will eventually be extended from the current Huanbei Terminal to Jhongli Train Station (on the conventional train line). The trains, which were made in Japan and Taiwan by Kawasaki, have a maximum speed of 100km/h. The total construction cost was NT114 billion (3.6 billion US dollars).
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| The airport MRT offers some good views over the Taoyuan and New Taipei City countryside. |
Welcome to Taiwan
Top Taipei Attractions
For many visitors these top two sights are anti-climaxes, mostly because the huge crowds. if you must visit them, here's how. But I recommend considering these quieter, more peaceful alternatives, which offer a similar experience without the crowds, chaos or steep entrance fees.| Taipei's Most Famous Attractions | ||
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| National Palace Museum | Taipei 101 | |
| Good Alternatives | ||
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| National Taiwan Museum | National Museum of History | Elephant Mountain |
Other Taipei Favourites
Politics
Taiwan has moved from one of Asia's most brutal dictatorships to one of its most free and vibrant democracies in one generation, and the world could learn a lot from its progress. |  |  |
| Presidential Palace | Liberty Square (Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall) | 2-28 Memorial Park |
History
For most of Taiwan's long history it's been inhabited by aboriginal people (原住民, yuánzhùmín). The last five hundred years have seen Spanish, Dutch, Ming Chinese and Japanese rulers. Most of Taiwan's best colonial history spots are north of the city in Beitou and Tamsui. |  |  |
| Beitou | Tamsui | Songshan Cultural Park |
Get out of Taipei
If you're in Taipei for around a week I recommend a typical route from Taipei to Jiufen to Jiaoxi (if time) to Taroko Gorge (usually via Hualien). If you'll only have a few days then I recommend just an overnight trip to Jiufen. |  |  |
| Jiufen | Jiaoxi | Taroko Gorge |
 Tainan | ||
Jiji Small Railway Line (集集線)
This 30 kilometre, narrow-gauge railway is the least popular of the three, being unknown to even many Taiwanese. While the Alishan railway traverses the famous mountain, and the Pingxi Line has passes through a beautiful gorge, the Jiji railway offers a panorama of the horticultural industry of central Taiwan, and the lives of those of whom it has sustained for generations. While this railway needn't feature highly on a short Taiwan itinerary, it makes a great escape from the populated West Coast, yet is less than an hour from Changhua or Taichung. It also ties in well with a visit to Sun Moon Lake.
The first and largest power station generated a total of 110 Megawatts, an enormous capacity for its day, and it powered most of Taiwan, including Taipei and Kaohsiung. Despite camouflage, extensive anti-aircraft artillery defence, and even the construction of a nearby 'fake' power station, its generators were destroyed by allied bombers during World War II, and were eventually rebuilt after the war. Several smaller power stations were added to supply Taiwan's burgeoning electricity needs during Taiwan's rapid pre-war industrialisation.
East Asia's largest underground power plant, and Taiwan's first pumped-storage facility, this power station uses excess power from Taiwan's nuclear power stations to pump water from Sun Moon Lake uphill (essentially running the generators in reverse) and then releases it, generating electricity, when the demand is at its peak during the daytime. It was badly damaged in the 1999 earthquake. The dam is visible from Checheng Station.
Source: this excellent article on Sun Moon Lake.
The first stop on the line is most famous for cycling, hiking and wild monkeys. There is a tourist information centre to the right as you exit the large station.
Six kilometres towards Jiji is the Ershui Formosan Macaque Nature Reserve, a rugged reserve popular among the country's only native monkey species.
Jiji is the best option to stay along the Jiji line if you're not making it a day trip. The station is a genuine rebuild of the original Japanese cypress station that was destroyed during the 9-21 earthquake of 1999, complete with roof tiles recycled from other collapsed Japanese buildings.
Jiji is home to a famous Endemic Species Research Institute, a large museum committed to preserving Taiwan's many endemic flora and fauna. They have some striking models of Taiwan's natural environment, much like those at the National Taiwan Museum (but more elaborate), and the bilingual exhibits have a powerful environmental message. The lower floor is dedicated to children's displays.
The Wuchang Temple is an unusual tourist attraction, to put it mildly. During the 9-21 earthquake its lower floors collapsed, leaving the top half of the temple mostly in tact. Rather than spending years demolishing heritage buildings like my home city of Christchurch is, the Jiji community decided to cordon off the temple as it was, and build a new (also impressive) temple complex beside it. It's a great photo opportunity, and geeks (especially of the engineer variety) will appreciate seeing how the earthquake caused it to lurch forward, crushing its lower floors while leaving the upper structure in tact. Care should be taken not to get too close, as damaged structures are prone to further collapse.
The wood carving museum offers a chance to have a go at making your own stool or other creations, and the old street is more authentic than most in Taiwan, with several original wooden Japanese houses.
Website (scroll down for English)
049-2871791
Mon - Fri: 9:30 - 17:00
Sat, Sun & Holidays: 9:30 - 17:30
The museum is outside Checheng Train Station (address: 南投縣水里鄉車埕村民權巷110之2號)
Checheng is a key stop on the Chinese tour bus route coming from Sun Moon Lake, and can get very crowded.
While pottery making is popular for children, and pottery enthusiasts could spend many hours learning about the history of ceramics in Taiwan, many visitors feel underwhelmed by the park, and consider it overpriced at NT150 and not worth the hour-long bus ride to get there (Bus 6289, from Shuili Train Station).
55346南投縣水里鄉頂崁村硘窯路18巷22號
No21, Lane512, Sec.1 shuishin Rd. Dingkan Village, Shuili Township, Nantou 55346
8:00 - 17:30
049-2770967
Website<
It was a stroke of luck that (with the help of a kind local) I found the Lu An Backpacker Hostel. I don't usually recommend hostels in Taiwan, as they are usually pretty dire and offer little if any saving over hotels, especially when travelling with two or more people. However the Lu An Hostel (Tripadvisor) is what hostels should be: friendly, simple and spotlessly clean. There are only dorm rooms available, but each bunk bed has a full curtain for privacy, and built-in lockable storage.
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| Jiji Station, from the platform. |
History: Electricity Generation
During the early twentieth century the new Japanese administration of Taiwan was investing heavily in the country's hither-to almost non-existent infrastructure, and the electrification of the island was a major part. Sun Moon Lake, being a huge body of water, at high altitude, continually fed by rivers from the central mountains, was the logical source. In the 1920s the Taiwan Power Company was formed, and the Jiji railway was built to facilitate the construction project. This massive undertaking took two decades to complete, at a cost of over 65 million Yen, for which government bonds and foreign loans were needed. Han and Aboriginal populations were forcefully relocated, and large amounts of greenery were removed in an attempt to reduce incidences of malaria for the 2.5 million labourers, who had to dig a fifty-kilometre channel to Sun Moon lake. It was an incredible feat of engineering for the time, and is still a significant source of electricity today.Daguan Power Plant (大觀發電廠)
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| Water is channelled down a fifty-kilometre canal before plummeting 320m to the generators. It was enough to power Taiwan in the 1930s. |
The first and largest power station generated a total of 110 Megawatts, an enormous capacity for its day, and it powered most of Taiwan, including Taipei and Kaohsiung. Despite camouflage, extensive anti-aircraft artillery defence, and even the construction of a nearby 'fake' power station, its generators were destroyed by allied bombers during World War II, and were eventually rebuilt after the war. Several smaller power stations were added to supply Taiwan's burgeoning electricity needs during Taiwan's rapid pre-war industrialisation.
Minghu Pumped Storage Plant
East Asia's largest underground power plant, and Taiwan's first pumped-storage facility, this power station uses excess power from Taiwan's nuclear power stations to pump water from Sun Moon Lake uphill (essentially running the generators in reverse) and then releases it, generating electricity, when the demand is at its peak during the daytime. It was badly damaged in the 1999 earthquake. The dam is visible from Checheng Station.
Source: this excellent article on Sun Moon Lake.
Ershui(二水)
Main Article: Ershui Station Guide |
| view from the three-kilometre Ershui Bikepath |
Six kilometres towards Jiji is the Ershui Formosan Macaque Nature Reserve, a rugged reserve popular among the country's only native monkey species.
Jiji (集集)
Main Article: Jiji Travel GuideJiji is the best option to stay along the Jiji line if you're not making it a day trip. The station is a genuine rebuild of the original Japanese cypress station that was destroyed during the 9-21 earthquake of 1999, complete with roof tiles recycled from other collapsed Japanese buildings.
Jiji is home to a famous Endemic Species Research Institute, a large museum committed to preserving Taiwan's many endemic flora and fauna. They have some striking models of Taiwan's natural environment, much like those at the National Taiwan Museum (but more elaborate), and the bilingual exhibits have a powerful environmental message. The lower floor is dedicated to children's displays.
Wuchang Temple (武昌宮)
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| It would spoil it to show the whole temple, but this gives an idea of the power of the earthquake and how the weight of the upper floors crushed the lower ones. |
The Wuchang Temple is an unusual tourist attraction, to put it mildly. During the 9-21 earthquake its lower floors collapsed, leaving the top half of the temple mostly in tact. Rather than spending years demolishing heritage buildings like my home city of Christchurch is, the Jiji community decided to cordon off the temple as it was, and build a new (also impressive) temple complex beside it. It's a great photo opportunity, and geeks (especially of the engineer variety) will appreciate seeing how the earthquake caused it to lurch forward, crushing its lower floors while leaving the upper structure in tact. Care should be taken not to get too close, as damaged structures are prone to further collapse.
Checheng (車埕)
Another rustic little Japanese township, Checheng was originally a holding bay for train carriages hauling in supplies for the construction of the hydroelectric power plants, and it then grew into a logistics centre for the area's prosperous logging industry. After the moratorium on logging in 1985 it almost became a ghost town, before reinvented itself as a tourist attraction, specialising in wood carving, leftover from its logging past.Che Cheng Wood Museum(車埕木業展示館)
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The wood carving museum offers a chance to have a go at making your own stool or other creations, and the old street is more authentic than most in Taiwan, with several original wooden Japanese houses.
Website (scroll down for English)
049-2871791
Mon - Fri: 9:30 - 17:00
Sat, Sun & Holidays: 9:30 - 17:30
The museum is outside Checheng Train Station (address: 南投縣水里鄉車埕村民權巷110之2號)
Checheng is a key stop on the Chinese tour bus route coming from Sun Moon Lake, and can get very crowded.
Shuili
Shuili is as unappealing as any small town could possibly be, and the only reason to go there is as a gateway to Sun Moon Lake (see Transport, below). I was unable to find a hotel with clean sheets.Shuili Snake Kiln Ceramics Park (水里蛇窯陶藝文化園區)
Snake kilns are long, winding, wood-fired kilns invented during the Ming Dynasty. Ash falls onto the pottery as it fires, creating an effect which can't be immitated by modern, electric or gas-fired kilns. The original kiln, which dated back to 1927, was completely destroyed during the 9-21 Earthquake, but the kiln, like the artisan village itself, was quickly rebuilt. The centre offers a rare glimpse into Taiwan's pottery industry, which grew under the Japanese administration, as Shuili has good clay and there was plenty of leftover wood to burn from the mills at Checheng.While pottery making is popular for children, and pottery enthusiasts could spend many hours learning about the history of ceramics in Taiwan, many visitors feel underwhelmed by the park, and consider it overpriced at NT150 and not worth the hour-long bus ride to get there (Bus 6289, from Shuili Train Station).
55346南投縣水里鄉頂崁村硘窯路18巷22號
No21, Lane512, Sec.1 shuishin Rd. Dingkan Village, Shuili Township, Nantou 55346
8:00 - 17:30
049-2770967
Website<
Accommodation
Being the closest railway station to Sun Moon Lake, Shuili has several hotels around the station, but most are typical crumbling, dirty old buildings, and I tried several hotels just looking for clean sheets, and eventually gave up and continued on to Jiji, which is shaping up to be the place of choice for travellers, especially groups of cyclists.It was a stroke of luck that (with the help of a kind local) I found the Lu An Backpacker Hostel. I don't usually recommend hostels in Taiwan, as they are usually pretty dire and offer little if any saving over hotels, especially when travelling with two or more people. However the Lu An Hostel (Tripadvisor) is what hostels should be: friendly, simple and spotlessly clean. There are only dorm rooms available, but each bunk bed has a full curtain for privacy, and built-in lockable storage.
Transport
Trains
The railway runs from Ershui Station until the Checheng terminal. Since it's a single track trains run each direction only every two hours, so it's essential to plan ahead. Ershui is about 30-40 minutes and around NT50 from Changua Station, or 50-60 minutes from Taichung Station (around NT80).Bus to Sun Moon Lake
There are buses from Shuili Station, the closest railway station to Sun Moon Lake, run regularly. The trip usually costs around NT60-70, and takes 2-3 hours.Private Transport?
This whole area is great to explore with your own wheels, if you have or can get them. Consider hiring scooters in Changhua or Taichung, riding to Sun Moon Lake, Puli, this railway line and even perhaps Wuling Farm.Pingxi Railway Line
The Pingxi Small Railway line is a thirteen kilometre, narrow-gauge railway, one of three remaining open from the Japanese era and by far the most accessible for short-term visitors to Taiwan. It's a great day trip from Taipei, or it can be easily visited alongside a trip to Jiufen and Jinguashi, and the train route from Taipei goes through Houtong. It's most famous for the Shifen Waterfall - the broadest and one of the most spectacular in Taiwan - and for the release of sky lanterns, which I don't recommend due to their harm to the local environment (see below).
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| Shifen Old Street |
Much like Jiufen and its siblings Jinguashi and Houtong, the towns along the Pingxi Line were all once thriving mining towns, all feature “old streets” selling tourist paraphernalia and old Japanese buildings (although there are fewer in these towns than Jiufen or Jinguashi). But, compared to Jiufen and Jinguashi, these towns have a much more ‘rough around the edges’ feel. While the former were all but abandoned after the mining collapsed, and have reinvented themselves as padded tourist destinations, the towns along the Pingxi Railway feel and are much more authentic. While coal has been replaced by tourism as their main source of income, still supplemented by horticulture, life has continued much the same for most residents of these towns for generations. Step off the tracks and go for a wander around these towns and it can feel quite other-worldly, but certainly not Miyazaki’s spirit world of Jiufen.
Towns are presented in order starting from Sandiaoling Station (from Taipei, Jiufen or Hualien). Sky Lanterns Pingxi is most famous for its release of Sky Lanterns, essentially hot air balloons made mostly of rice paper. Legend has it that these balloons were invented in China around two thousand years ago as a means of sending military information, and were introduced to Taiwan in the nineteenth century. Being isolated by mountains all around, the area was prone to banditry, and the sky lanterns were used as a warning to women and children to run into the mountains for safety, or to signal when it was safe to return. They soon developed into a form of prayer, and have been released annually around Chinese New Year for many generations.
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| Once the fun is over, sky lanterns quickly become a source of pollution. |
As romantic and nostalgic as this may sound, their release now occurs
on such a large, commercial scale that the lanterns, which contain
wire and plastic, now litter the community and surrounding mountains,
especially the beautiful Keelung River. Once the photographs are
taken and the excitement is over the balloons only stay in the air
for a few minutes before they run out of fuel and descend into the
mountains, and that’s if they work properly; if not they come
crashing down still burning and become a fire hazard. I saw one land
on a roof still burning and another ball of flames land in the nearby
forest.
Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival
Around the first two weeks of the new year (by the Chinese Lunar Calendar, usually around
February) the Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival takes this release to new
levels, and while extra public transport is provided, it becomes very
crowded.
There are some supposedly environmentally-friendly (and more expensive) sky lanterns available, but I still don't recommend a form of entertainment which creates pollution and risks starting fires.
Shifen Old Street
Shifen, the first main
stop coming from Sandiaoling, is the only place remaining in Taiwan
where the train passes just a few metres from the road on either
side, and the sky lanterns are released from the tracks themselves.
It’s now crowded with tourists, mostly decorating sky lanterns
awaiting their turn for release, but it still retains its real
historic vibe. It’s worth the twenty minute / two kilometre walk to
the spectacular, cascading Shifen Waterfall (十分大瀑布),
the broadest waterfall in Taiwan (twenty metres high and forty metres
wide), but it’s a pity that there isn’t a closer stop, since the
train goes right past it. The path to the waterfall is mostly along
the road, but the last few minutes are through the “Shifen
Waterfall Park”, where the walking path is very well constructed,
so while care should always be taken it should be possible to walk it
after heavy rainfall, at which time the falls are the most
spectacular.
Essentials The Shifen Waterfall Park closes at 16:30 year round, well before nightfall.
Shifen (十分)
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| Shifen Station |
Shifen Waterfall
Essentials The Shifen Waterfall Park closes at 16:30 year round, well before nightfall.
Electric Scooter Scam
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| Please don't fall for this scam and rent scooters. |
There are no
buses to the falls, but it's a reasonably pleasant half-hour walk. Please don't fall for the electric scooter scam. Signs at the shop (in Shifen Old Street, just outside the station) advertise that the falls are one hour's walk away, or five minutes by scooter". The physics teacher in me can assure you that can't be correct, unless you're riding at about 60 kilometres per hour, which would be impossible on these streets even if the scooters could go that fast.
Most significantly, scooters are not allowed on the narrow walkway (which includes bridges) to the falls, so scooter riders do indeed ride the scooters for about five minutes, then they need to park them and walk the rest of the way. So, in reality, renting a scooter saves about 10 minutes' walk at the most.
Pingxi (平溪)
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| Pingxi Old Street |
Besides the sky
lanterns (also released from Shifen) Pingxi is famous for its hiking,
particularly the Pingxi Crags, the highest of which is 450 metres.
Ropes are set up, and while no special skills are required, they are
steep, and require reasonable balance and strength. The whole area
offers amazing scenery (besides the crags), including temples and
more abandoned mines typical of the area. It’s essential to leave
luggage at Riufang Station and carry a bare minimum for the hike.
Stock up on some snack food and drinks at the 7-Eleven, especially if
you haven’t already eaten at Jingtong.
There are two entrances to the main hiking area, both from the main road which runs parallel to the train tracks. One is just across the bridge from Pingxi, and the other is just past Pingxi High School. Allow at least three to four hours for the hike to and up the crags, but one could spend plenty more time in the area.
Directly opposite the eastern end of the platform (towards Pingxi), behind the wishing tree (a tree decorated with hanging pieces of bamboo inscribed with wishes, which can be purchased in the old street) steps lead up to the Shidi Colliery Site (石底煤礦遺址), which includes the sealed up Shidi Slope Mine (石底大斜坑, or Shidi inclined pit) its former head office and coal preparation plant. During the early 1930s it had the highest coal output of all mines in Taiwan, but it’s now all in ruins, with the spent sky lanterns littering the ground the only recent sign of life. Further up, back towards the railway tracks (and with its own entrance from the railway track further east at 50 Jingtong Street) is the Mei Kuang Memorial Park (煤矿纪念公园), with a few picnic tables and public toilets. The main feature of the memorial is multi-story concrete structure, made to resemble a coal mine, which offers good views of the surrounding mountains from the top. It appears, however, to be built into a cliff, with a steep drop from the top without any railing, and the structure itself is cracking in places. The whole area is quite interesting but at least as dangerous, especially the memorial, so it should not be visited during or after bad weather, or by children or anyone without a good sense of balance, or anyone without comprehensive travel insurance. A lot more can be learned, in a safer environment, at the Benshan Fifth Mine in Jinguashi.
Pingxi Hiking Trails
Pingxi is the most famous hiking area along the railway, especially the Pingxi Crags, but there are plenty others. See this post by the author of Taipei Day Trips I and II, for a hike up Mt Jiangziliao and plenty more hikes around Taipei. |
| Pingxi Hiking Trails |
There are two entrances to the main hiking area, both from the main road which runs parallel to the train tracks. One is just across the bridge from Pingxi, and the other is just past Pingxi High School. Allow at least three to four hours for the hike to and up the crags, but one could spend plenty more time in the area.
Jingtong (菁桐)
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| Historic, Japanese Jingtong Station |
Jingtong Station
The terminal station on this line is another little piece of Japanese history, but with the exception of the station itself, which is one of the best-preserved (or best-restored) old stations in Taiwan, none compare with the authentic old buildings at Jiufen or Jinguashi, or Beitou. There are also more hikes around, but none as popular as the Pingxi Crags and their surroundings. The old street appears as if Jingtong felt obliged to have one because all the other towns along the tracks do, but it really feels as if it’s the end of the line, which it is.Mining Ruins
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| Shidi Colliery (slope mine) |
Directly opposite the eastern end of the platform (towards Pingxi), behind the wishing tree (a tree decorated with hanging pieces of bamboo inscribed with wishes, which can be purchased in the old street) steps lead up to the Shidi Colliery Site (石底煤礦遺址), which includes the sealed up Shidi Slope Mine (石底大斜坑, or Shidi inclined pit) its former head office and coal preparation plant. During the early 1930s it had the highest coal output of all mines in Taiwan, but it’s now all in ruins, with the spent sky lanterns littering the ground the only recent sign of life. Further up, back towards the railway tracks (and with its own entrance from the railway track further east at 50 Jingtong Street) is the Mei Kuang Memorial Park (煤矿纪念公园), with a few picnic tables and public toilets. The main feature of the memorial is multi-story concrete structure, made to resemble a coal mine, which offers good views of the surrounding mountains from the top. It appears, however, to be built into a cliff, with a steep drop from the top without any railing, and the structure itself is cracking in places. The whole area is quite interesting but at least as dangerous, especially the memorial, so it should not be visited during or after bad weather, or by children or anyone without a good sense of balance, or anyone without comprehensive travel insurance. A lot more can be learned, in a safer environment, at the Benshan Fifth Mine in Jinguashi.
Pingxi Railway Food
Jingtong (菁桐崇德素食) is the only vegetarian or healthy meal option along the Pingxi Railway. It serves typical Taiwanese rice, noodles and vegetables. They have an English menu, with dishes mostly around NT$100, but you'll need at least two per person, especially if you're hiking.
The restaurant is directly opposite the bridge across the river, on the same side of the road as the railway tracks.
The restaurant is directly opposite the bridge across the river, on the same side of the road as the railway tracks.
新北市平溪區靜安路二段149號
Jing An Road, Section 2, Number 149
02) 2495-1568 (landline) or 09 5268-4567 (mobile)
9:00-20:00
Pingxi Railway Line Transport
The Pingxi railway
branches off the main Taiwan Railways line (which connects Taipei, Jiaoxi and Hualien)
at Sandiaoling Station (三貂嶺車站 ),
but many of its trains continue on to Riufang Station (the closest
stop to Jiufen and Jinguashi). When returning to Taipei from the
Pingxi Line Google Maps may suggest a particular station to change at
based on the precise speeds and timing of both trains, but otherwise
change between the two lines at Sandiaoling Station. The complete
journey from Sandiaoling Station to the terminal Jingtong Station
takes about forty minutes and costs NT$19; the whole trip from Taipei
can be covered by an Easycard. A one-day pass (from Riufang to
Jingtong) costs NT$80, but as of May 2015 the discount is
automatically applied to the Easycard. While the railway itself and
many stations and surrounding buildings are historic, the trains
themselves are just ordinary local trains, unlike the original steam
engine which takes passengers up Alishan Mountain, so consider a bus
if it’s more convenient. It’s possible to reach Jingtong, or
return, via bus 795 to Muzha Station, the terminal of the brown line,
which would tie in well with a trip up the Maokong Gondola.
Alternatively bus 1062 (bound for Jiufen) departs from Zhongxiao Fuxing Station (for Jiufen and Jinguashi) and stops at Riufang Station, where it’s possible to transfer to the Pingxi Line. If returning at night Bus 1062, like the train, stops at Songshan Station on the green (Xindian) line.
The Pingxi railway
branches off the main railway (connecting Taipei, Jiaoxi and Hualien)
at Sandiaoling Station (三貂嶺車站 ),
but many of its trains continue on to Riufang Station (the closest
stop to Jiufen and Jinguashi). When returning to Taipei from the
Pingxi Line Google Maps may suggest a particular station to change at
based on the precise speeds and timing of both trains, but otherwise
change between the two lines at Sandiaoling Station. The complete
journey from Sandiaoling Station to the terminal Jingtong Station
takes about forty minutes and costs NT19; the whole trip from Taipei
can be covered by an Easycard. Alternatively bus 1062 (bound for Jiufen) departs from Zhongxiao Fuxing Station (for Jiufen and Jinguashi) and stops at Riufang Station, where it’s possible to transfer to the Pingxi Line. If returning at night Bus 1062, like the train, stops at Songshan Station on the green (Xindian) line.
While the railway itself and
many stations and surrounding buildings are historic, the trains
themselves are just ordinary local trains, unlike the original steam
engine which takes passengers up Alishan Mountain, so consider a bus
if it’s more convenient. It’s possible to reach Jingtong, or
return, via bus 795 to Muzha Station, the terminal of the brown line,
which would tie in well with a trip up the Maokong Gondola.
Alternatively bus 1062 (bound for Jiufen) departs from Zhongxiao Fuxing Station (for Jiufen and Jinguashi) and stops at Riufang Station, where it’s possible to transfer to the Pingxi Line. If returning at night Bus 1062, like the train, stops at Songshan Station on the green (Xindian) MRT (subway) line.
Alternatively bus 1062 (bound for Jiufen) departs from Zhongxiao Fuxing Station (for Jiufen and Jinguashi) and stops at Riufang Station, where it’s possible to transfer to the Pingxi Line. If returning at night Bus 1062, like the train, stops at Songshan Station on the green (Xindian) MRT (subway) line.
Taipei 101
Taipei 101 Observatory
Taipei 101 was officially the world's tallest building from its completion in 2004 until 2010, when it was surpassed by Burj Khalifa in Dubai. As Taipei's icon it's considered one of Taipei's quintessential three tourist attractions, along with the Shilin Night Market and the National Palace Museum. I consider all three to be highly over-rated, however on the right day the Taipei 101 observatory does offer unparalleled views of Taipei and beyond, and the Xinyi shopping district is an interesting area to explore in itself, especially during the evening.
Taipei 101 is a compulsory stop on the Chinese tour bus circuit, so expect it to be very crowded. Many people also complain about being forced through a vast expanse of souvenir shops on the way up to the tower and crystal shops on the way down.
Engineering
Many people dispute whether it was ever the world's tallest building at all, because the Willis Tower (formerly Sears Tower) in Chicago is taller, but Taipei 101's spire 'counts', while Willis's antennas don't. Either way Taipei 101 is an incredible feat of engineering given that it's built on a tectonic fault line, unlike the world's other tallest buildings, and it's also the world's tallest certified 'green building'. Visitors walk past the world's largest tuned mass damper, a 660-tonne sphere which keeps the building upright during wind and earthquakes, on the floor below the observatory on their way out.
Around Taipei 101
The Xinyi area around Taipei 101 is Taipei's most luxurious shopping district, with the most expensive brands usually found in the Taipei 101 shopping mall itself. On the fifth floor is the Page One bookshop, which carries a large collection of English-language books. The department stores to the North East of Taipei 101 between Xinyi Square (信義廣場) and Taipei City Hall Station make an interesting area to wander during the evening, especially when there are buskers performing in the courtyards which can be watched from higher floors.
Politics
As at most sites popular with Chinese tourists, practitioners and supporters of Falun Dafa regularly hold demonstrations to show a side of their practice not seen by Chinese and to protest the torture of their practitioners in China. To counter this, the Chinese government employs Chinese (their leader speaks with a Southern Chinese accent) to wave Chinese flags, sing communist songs and film any Chinese tourists who engage the falun dafa protesters (for which they may be punished back in China). Despite once being the most free country in Asia (according to Freedom House) recent political moves towards China have curtailed freedoms here in Taiwan, and foreigners have been threatened with having their visas revoked for joining the Falun Dafa demonstration.
Food
The foodcourt under Taipei 101 is aimed squarely at wealthy Chinese tourists, and most Western tourists are likely to find little appealing. It's well worth the walk to find something better. There is, however, a branch of Jasons, an imported foods shop, which sells a good range of imported snack foods and drinks, tea or any other high-end groceries.
Guangfu Loving Hut
The best restaurant in the area is the Guangfu Loving Hut, which serves delicious vegetarian hotpots. Prices are around NT300 per meal.
website
11:30 - 9:30 (LO 9:00) (everyday)
(02) 2777-2711
Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall Station (Blue line) Exit 2
台北市大安區光復南路280巷30號
Vege Creek
Also very good are Vege Creek, from which customers choose their own fresh vegetables, noodles and other staples, and a talented chef whips them up into an incredible one-pot wonder in minutes. Prices are according to the number of ingredients and vegetables chosen, but a large meal of several servings costs about NT200.
Facebook Page
12:00 - 2:00, 17:00 - 21:00
大安區延吉街129巷2號
02 2778 1967
Essentials
Taipei 101 Observatory Website
MRT Taipei 101 on the Tamsui-Xinyi (red) line.
Cost: 500 NT
9:00 - 22:00 (doors close 21:15)
The observatory is on the 89th floor, near the top of the actual building (as opposed to the spire). The entrance is on the fifth floor of the Taipei 101 shopping mall.
Bus Station
It's not worth taking city buses to Taipei 101, but there's a bus station at the nearby Taipei City Hall Station on the blue MRT line, with buses to must major destinations around northern Taiwan, including Taipei Taoyuan International Airport, which can avoid the worst of the traffic jams around central Taipei experienced by buses from Taipei's central bus stations.
Map
Nearby
Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall is a short walk away.
Alternatives
Elephant Mountain
A comparable if not better view of the Taipei Cityscape, complete with the iconic building in the foreground, can be had from nearby Elephant Mountain (post coming soon). Take the MRT to Xiangshan Station (the terminal of the red line, one past Taipei 101) and follow the signs.
Taipei 101 was officially the world's tallest building from its completion in 2004 until 2010, when it was surpassed by Burj Khalifa in Dubai. As Taipei's icon it's considered one of Taipei's quintessential three tourist attractions, along with the Shilin Night Market and the National Palace Museum. I consider all three to be highly over-rated, however on the right day the Taipei 101 observatory does offer unparalleled views of Taipei and beyond, and the Xinyi shopping district is an interesting area to explore in itself, especially during the evening.
Taipei 101 is a compulsory stop on the Chinese tour bus circuit, so expect it to be very crowded. Many people also complain about being forced through a vast expanse of souvenir shops on the way up to the tower and crystal shops on the way down.
| First Things First It's only worth going up Taipei 101 during fine weather. On humid days it can seem clear on the ground while it's misty enough that it's difficult to see more than a few blocks from the observatory tower, defeating the purpose of visiting. The best time to go up is just before dusk, however you'll need to allow at least an hour for the queue at this time. |
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| This photo was taken on what appeared to be a clear day (on the ground). The Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Building, Taipei's second tallest (opposite Taipei Main Station) can be seen in the centre. |
Engineering
Around Taipei 101
Politics
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| Falun Dafa and pro-unification with China demonstrations outside Taipei 101 |
Food
The foodcourt under Taipei 101 is aimed squarely at wealthy Chinese tourists, and most Western tourists are likely to find little appealing. It's well worth the walk to find something better. There is, however, a branch of Jasons, an imported foods shop, which sells a good range of imported snack foods and drinks, tea or any other high-end groceries.
Guangfu Loving Hut
The best restaurant in the area is the Guangfu Loving Hut, which serves delicious vegetarian hotpots. Prices are around NT300 per meal.
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| Vegetables to cook yourself in the broth provided at the Guangfu Loving Hut |
website
11:30 - 9:30 (LO 9:00) (everyday)
(02) 2777-2711
Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall Station (Blue line) Exit 2
台北市大安區光復南路280巷30號
Vege Creek
Also very good are Vege Creek, from which customers choose their own fresh vegetables, noodles and other staples, and a talented chef whips them up into an incredible one-pot wonder in minutes. Prices are according to the number of ingredients and vegetables chosen, but a large meal of several servings costs about NT200.
 |
| Veggie Creek: Choose your veges, choose your proteins and your meal will be ready in minutes. |
12:00 - 2:00, 17:00 - 21:00
大安區延吉街129巷2號
02 2778 1967
Essentials
Taipei 101 Observatory Website
MRT Taipei 101 on the Tamsui-Xinyi (red) line.
Cost: 500 NT
9:00 - 22:00 (doors close 21:15)
The observatory is on the 89th floor, near the top of the actual building (as opposed to the spire). The entrance is on the fifth floor of the Taipei 101 shopping mall.
Bus Station
It's not worth taking city buses to Taipei 101, but there's a bus station at the nearby Taipei City Hall Station on the blue MRT line, with buses to must major destinations around northern Taiwan, including Taipei Taoyuan International Airport, which can avoid the worst of the traffic jams around central Taipei experienced by buses from Taipei's central bus stations.
Map
Nearby
Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall is a short walk away.
Alternatives
Elephant Mountain
A comparable if not better view of the Taipei Cityscape, complete with the iconic building in the foreground, can be had from nearby Elephant Mountain (post coming soon). Take the MRT to Xiangshan Station (the terminal of the red line, one past Taipei 101) and follow the signs.
Maokong Gondola
The Maokong Gondola offers views of the city from the clean(er) air of Maokong, but from much further away. It also offers hiking opportunities, and the MRT and gondola tickets combined cost less than half the price.
Mirimar Ferris Wheel
This giant Ferris Wheel at Mirimar Entertainment Park (美麗華百樂園) in Neihu was once Taiwan's largest, and while not nearly as high as Taipei 101, it still offers a reasonable view over parts of Taipei, in your own small car. It's particularly popular among young couples on dates. The Mirimar Entertainment Park also includes a movie theatre, and has no connection to the controversial Mirimar hotel resort on the fragile East Coast of Taiwan. Take the MRT to the Jiannan Road Station on the Neihu (brown) line. Opening hours: 11:00 - 22:00. Cost: 200NT per person, with discounts during the week or for students.
See Also
Elephant Mountain
Jiufen Travel Guide (Updated 2022)
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| Jiufen, as seen from SiaoCuKeng Ancient Footpath Trail |
First Things First
1. Timing
Jiufen is busier and accommodation more expensive during the weekend, but being mostly polite Japanese, the crowds are bearable, and prices don't rise as much as other popular tourist excursions. So it's best to spend weekends in Taipei (and book hotels in advance) but if you must spend a weekend on the tourist trail then it's much better to spend it at Jiufen than in Hualien, Taroko Gorge or Jiaoxi. If you will be continuing onto these destination I recommend staying around Riufang (the nearest train station) or even Keelung.2. Weather
Most of the old street is undercover, but avoid visiting during bad weather. Jiufen can be a few degrees colder than Taipei.2. Luggage
Bring as little as possible as you'll probably go to Jinguashi or Houtong the next day and not return to your accommodation in Jiufen, so there's nowhere to leave luggage. If you can't leave it at your accommodation in Taipei leave it in a locker at Taipei Main Station.History
Qing Dynasty
Jiufen was one of only a small part of Taiwan developed during its era under the Qing Dynasty (1683-1895). There were, at one point, nine families living there, so they would request "nine portions" of supplies from the government, which became the town's name and is still in use today. In 1893 gold was discovered, and the subsequent gold rush brought rapid development. In 1896 the Japanese took control of Taiwan under the Treaty of Shimonoseki, and rapidly developed the area into a prosperous gold mining town. At its peak the mines in the area were a significant contributor of raw materials (especially coal and gold) to the Japanese empire, and its from this era that most of Jiufen's and the surrounding area's fame comes. Much of the famed tourist areas of Jiufen were originally an entertainment district (euphemistically speaking) for the miners, and many old buildings survive from this period, giving the area a feeling similar to parts of Kyoto and other Japanese localities which have kept or rebuilt their traditional style. During World War II the Japanese built a POW camp in Jiufen (Kinkaseki / 戰俘營), and many allied soldiers captured in Singapore were forced to work in the nearby mines, needless to say in appalling conditions. |
| Shuqi Road (Jiufen Old Street) |
Post-Japan and Revival
After Japan's surrender, and the subsequent handover of Taiwan to the Republic of China, Chinese soldiers flooded Taiwan and looted the country for anything of value to send to China to support their war effort against the communists, much of the mining equipment was melting down and sent back to China. Cheaper coal flooded in from China, productivity fell, and mining operations were ceased in 1971, leaving the town all but forgotten. It sprang to fame and reinvented itself as a tourist destination in the 1990s, after its contribution to several movies, most famously the Taiwanese film "A City of Sadness" and (perhaps) Japanese "Spirited Away".Movie Fame
A City of Sadness
In 1989, as Taiwan was just entering its modern era of democracy, movie producer Hou Hsiao-Hsien used Jiufen as the setting for his famous movie "A city of sadness", the first movie to depict the 2-28 massacre and openly discuss the White Terror era of Taiwan (in which thousands of Taiwanese ere killed by the Kuomintang / Chinese Nationalist Party government under Chiang Kai Shek - see 2-28 Peace Memorial Museum). It was the first Taiwanese film to win the Golden Lion Award at the Venice Film Festival. This triggered a revival of the area, as Taiwanese began to flock to Jiufen for a taste of old Taiwan.Spirited Away
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| Amei's Teahouse, a former blacksmith's workshop now run by his granddaughter, is considered similar in appearance to Yubaba, the bathhouse from Spirited Away, but that may be as far as the connection to the movie goes. But it doesn't stop countless Japanese tourists visiting. |
It's widely believed that in 2001 Japanese film producer Hayao Miyazaki was inspired by Jiufen in his production of the coming-of-age movie Spirited Away (千と千尋の神隠し), about a ten year old girl who is whisked away to the spirit world, where she is forced to work for a bathhouse which serves kami (spirits) so that she and he parents can return to the physical world. As an animae (cartoon) film there was of course no actual filming involved, but Jiufen (along with other places in Japan) is said to have contributed much of the inspiration behind the depiction of the spirit world, with many scenes from the film apparently very similar to Jiufen. Some enthusiasts have tried (somewhat successfully) to match their photos of Jiufen with screenshots of the film. However, there's little evidence to back this up claim, or even that Miyazaki even visited Jiufen. It may simply be a legend stemming from the apparently similar appearance between Amei's Teahouse and Yubaba (the bathhouse from the film). Whatever Jiufen's connection -- if any -- to Japan's most successful film of all time (which attracted more viewers than the Titanic) Japanese tourists flock to Jiufen to photograph Amei's tea house, and seem to almost feel as if they themselves have been spirited away into the world of the movie in being there. Every Japanese tourist and student I've met in Japan has either been there or been planning to; around the old street one hears more Japanese than Chinese. It's also becomming increasingly popular with tourists from Korea and Hong Kong.
Jiufen Old Street
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| Jiufen Old Street shops |
Shiqu Road (aka Jiufen Old Street), the most famous attraction, is really just two narrow, mostly covered lanes, filled with restaurants, tea shops and souvenir shops selling vast quantities of "Taiwanese" products, many of which you'll never see anywhere else. The most significant street is the Shuqi Street, a long , narrow and usually very crowded stairway. It's clearly made to resemble the old-school Japan look that it once would have had (complete with fake cherry blossoms!) and while a few newer, less attractive buildings spoil the image somewhat, at times it really does feel like a somewhat older Kyoto, and really is very beautiful.The shops close up early, with most businesses closed by nine o'clock, so I recommend going to bed early and getting up to enjoy the beautiful views, and/or hike in the mountains, early the next day.
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| Shuqi Road is Jiufen's most photographed street, and possibly even in all of Taiwan. |
Teahouses
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| Jiufen Teahouse, the first teahouse in modern-day Jiufen |
It's customary to drink tea in Jiufen. The first tea house to reestablish itself in the 1990s was the Jiufen Teahouse, which is housed in a beautifully-restored, century old Japanese building, which was originally the operation headquarters of a gold mining company, then became a Chinese medicine clinic and finally the tea house in 1991. Stepping in here feels like stepping into another time. Ceramics are sold downstairs. It's disappointing that they keep so many fish in a tiny indoor pond.
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| Tea and dessert from Jiufen Teahouse (580NT) |
Only tea and snacks are served. It costs NT$100 plus a tea purchase (35 grams, starting at NT$400) to drink as much tea as you like (and you take the rest of the tea away with you). Alternatively you can pay NT2$00 and bring your own tea. The Jiufen Teahouse (九份茶坊) is at 142 Jishan Street (turn right as you reach Jishan Street from Shuqi Street (the main stairs). Here are directions from your location.
There are countless other tea houses at Jiufen offering a similar service. Amei's Teahouse (from Spirited Away - see below) is also very popular, especially with Japanese, but gets mixed reviews for its food and service.
Other Sights
While Jiufen has its own mining history, I recommend spending most time in Jiufen either exploring the old street, drinking tea or hiking in the mountains (especially Siaocukeng Ancient Footpath). Save a mining history tour for Jinguashi (gold and copper) and Houtong (coal).Wufan Tunnel
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| Wufan Tunnel, Jiufen |
This coal mine (五番坑道) was excavated in 1927 and finally sealed up in 1971. It's worth stopping by on your way to Songde Park (for the Siaocokeng Ancient Footpath) but if you're interested in mines it's best to go inside the old Benshan Fifth mine tunnel in nearby Jinguashi.
Songde Park (頌德公園)
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| Yen Yun-nian Memorial |
This small memorial park is about a ten minute walk from Jiufen. It's a pleasant spot to rest and enjoy views of Jiufen and the surrounding mountains and sea. The park is centred around a memorial statue of Yen Yun-nian, who founded Jiufen's mining culture early last century. His former operations office (Taiyang Company Ruifang mining Operation Office / 台陽礦業事務所) is located just below Jiufen Station. I highly recommend the SiaoCuKeng Ancient Footpath Trail which starts from this Park.
Hiking
Mount Jilong
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| Mt Jilong (aka Big Belly Beauty Mountain) as seen from the Siaocukeng Ancient Footpath Trail, with Jiufen below. |
Perhaps the most famous hike is up Mt Jilong / Keelung (基隆山), the mountain visible from most of Jiufen. It's said to look like a pregnant woman lying on her back, and is known colloquially as Big Belly Beauty Mountain. It takes about forty minutes to the peak. Be sure to take warm clothes and enough food and drink.
Siaocukeng Ancient Footpath Trail
Main Page: Siaocukeng Ancient Footpath Trail
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| SiaoCuKeng Ancient Footpath Trail |
This hiking path (小粗坑古道) is my favourite hike in Taiwan. It starts at Songde Park and continues up the mountain behind Jiufen and over to Houtong, a former coal-mining town just coming to tourist fame, largely for its domestic cats. The path passes through the eerie ruins of the former SiaoCuKeng Settlement, a small but wealthy coal gold mining community which is now all in ruins, mostly overtaken by jungle, offering some incredible photo opportunities. Much of the path follows the workers' daily trek up the stone steps to the mines in Jinguashi, and stops at a couple of somewhat maintained old temples. See my full page for more photos and safety information.
Accommodation
While most people visit Jiufen as a day trip from Taipei, it's well worth staying the night, and either getting up early the next day to walk to Houtong, or spending the next day in Jinguashi, or another of the area's many great hikes.There are no large hotels in Jiufen, but there are several small hostels in Jishan Street, a few minutes walk south of Jiufen Old Street, just past the Jiufen Teahouse. Rooms generally start at around NT$2,000 per night in Jiufen, or slightly less further away. I recommend booking one online (using your favourite online travel agent), but it's absolutely essential if you'll be there for a weekend. (Prices are higher during the weekend, but not by nearly as much as Taroko Gorge).
Essentials
Transport
MRT and Bus(1 hour 15 minutes, NT$135)
The easiest and most popular route to Jiufen is to take bus 1062 from Zhongxiao Fuxing Station. Take Exit 2, turn right as you leave the station and then turn right again as you reach the street. Buses leave from right there, under the MRT Station itself. It's signposted in English.A faster and more pleasant route is to take the green MRT line (or the conventional train) to Songshan Station, the terminal station, or the regular Taiwan Railways Administration train (the conventional train, not the High Speed Rail) to Songshan Train Station. Take the main Songshan Station exit and the bus bay is across the road, or take MRT Songshan Station Exit 4, turn right as you exit, carefully cross the pedestrian crossing and the bus leaves from the bus bay across the bus depot. Please do not use this approach during busy times (weekends and evenings) as buses often fill up at Zhongxiao Fuxing, leaving would-be passengers waiting a long time for a seat. If you find yourself in this position just go back into Songshan Station and take the train to Riufang Station (see below).
Train and Bus (0:45 -1:15, NT$55-80)
Alternatively, take the train to Riufang Station. Any northbound train NOT bound for Keelung except the Taroko Express should stop there, and it's covered by the Easycard (so it's possible to jump on any train, without a seat reservation) but if in doubt buy a ticket on a specific train (and you may also get a seat). From there take bus 788 (slower, less frequent) or 1062 (faster, less frequent) to Jiufen. To reach the bus stop, walk out Riufang Station and turn left, and then follow the signs (or Google Maps). As always, ignore the taxi touts.From Keelung
Keelung used to be a typical ugly port city, but much effort has gone in in recent years to clean it up, and it's now quite pleasant to explore (post coming soon). The reach Jiufen from Keelung take bus 788 from Keelung Station. It takes a little over an hour (in good traffic) and costs NT$30.What to Bring
It can get quite cold in Jiufen, with a northerly wind bringing in cold air from above. Also bring sturdy hiking shoes and enough snack food if you intend to hike. The hiking trails can be quite steep, so if you intend to hike and stay overnight if possible leave your luggage at Taipei Main Station. There are also lockers in Keelung Station. Vegetarians and vegans or anyone else with dietary requirements should bring food from Taipei.Ignore the Touts
Unfortunately a team of very aggressive, belligerent touts have began targeting tourists (especially Japanese) around Zhongxiao Fuxing Station. This type of illegal soliciting (commonplace in countries like Thailand and India) is rare in Taiwan, so hopefully this isn't a sign of things to come. The touts gather up unsuspecting tourists, lead them to the wrong bus stop, then try to convince them that the bus takes two hours because it takes the local roads, and offer a "discounted" taxi fare to Jiufen which apparently takes the highway. In reality much of the route to Jiufen follows a small country road (Jiufen being an isolated, coastal town) but a taxi will be little if any faster in the traffic jams than a bus, and the bus takes the highway as much as possible (towards Riufang).I strongly recommend completely ignoring these touts. I see no reason to take a taxi as the buses are regular and comfortable, but if you want to it would be much safer and almost certainly cheaper to flag one down than to negotiate with these con men.
See Also
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| Jinguashi | Houtong | SiaoCuKeng Old Trail |
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| The view from Jiufen at night, looking towards Keelung (Jilong). |
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